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And for those who simply can't get enough discussion of compost tea, in May, we will be running a pair of commentaries on the subject by Jeff Gilman, author of The Truth About Garden Remedies, and Jeff Lowenfels, co-author of Teaming with Microbes.

I really liked Craig's answers.

I'll be addressing the whole compost tea thing in greater depth in May, but I wanted to mention that, in general, we consider organic fertilizers to have a higher degree of potential for harming the environment with phosphorus runoff because, while we can select a synthetic fertilizer with a lower quantity of phosphorus (this is especially true here in MN), it is difficult to reliably find an organic fertilizer with low phosphorus relative to the amount of N which it contains. Indeed, most organic fertilizers have relatively high P in relation to their N values. Since most fertilizer applications are made based on N and not P, P often gets overapplied, potentially creating a problem.

By the way, for phosphorus contamination of surface water runoff (water flowing laterally over a soil surface) is often more important than leaching (water flowing through the soil).

It is true that most of the nutrient runoff problems that we have in this country are due to applications of sythetic fertilizers, but that is because synthetic fertilizers are used more often than organic fertilizers -- not because the organic fertilizers are less prone to runoff.

Having said all of this I have one more thing to say -- no matter what type of fertilizer you use - fertilize less -- we fertilize our yards way too damn much in this society of ours and it makes me sick -- in the last issue of Consumer Reports it recommended adding 5 pounds of N per thousand square feet of turf per year -- THIS IS INSANE (The whole article was a mess -- I wrote them a long letter...). Only in rare circumstances do you need more than 3 -- even if you want to win a green grass competition in your neighborhood. Most people should be at 1 - 2 pounds.

I'm starting to sound like a broken record, but Linda Chalker-Scott's mythbusting site also features some research on the subject of organic fertilizers and potential contamination.

I would like to see some citations for "plenty of peer-reviewed research" -- "contact Dr. Paul Hepperly for confirmation" is most assuredly *not* the equivalent.

Last year I used a soluble organic fertilizer with a high P level around newly planted shrubs. I mixed it for a watering can and intensively watered small amounts around specific plants.

Hopefully this is a safer practice ... ?

Would it be possible to have some discussion about fertilizing practices at this blog too? Is there a way to minimize the potential for phosphorus runoff with organic fertilizers by using specific application methods? I've been trying to read up on ecological gardening practices, but haven't actually found anything on this subject yet except the general idea that "compost is good."

yep -- soon after I wrote my book I discovered Linda-Chalker Scott's website -- it's excellent. There are very few areas where we don't agree (probably the reason I think she's so great...).

A discussion on minimizing P lost to the environment -- that would be an interesting discussion -- it's tough -- but the best way to minimize would probably be to use less fertilizer in the first place and to use some smart gardening techniques -- I like lasagnia gardening -- see Lee Reich's book Weedless Gardening. Also -- don't fertilize right before a heavy rain -- that's the best way to get your nutrients washed right into a nearby lake.

What Jeff said.

I'm working on a lawn care article at work focusing on phosphorus. It should be done sometime this week and I'll share it then.

I agree with most of the comments on reducing the amount of fertilizer used on our lawns. However, whether it is organic or synthetic is unimportant as both are being absorbed as needed and excess is lost to runoff. What is important is that only what is needed should be applied and this is done through a thorough soil test to determine that need.

In most lawns, 2 fertilizer applications a year (late spring and early fall) are all that is needed, if you practice grass-cycling instead of bagging lawn clippings, aerate the soil regularly, and add top-dressing to the lawn once every year or two to help improve the soil.

The importance of a healthy soil can't be over-emphasized for having a healthy lawn. This means a soil that is not compacted, has lots of bacteria and other microbes living healthy lives, and avoiding pesticides that might kill these little workers.

The entire disucssion of phosphorus in our water is an important topic, but should not be blantantly blamed on excess lawn fertilization.

There are many sources of phosphorus contamination. Lawn clippings discharged into the street is a good example as are fall leaves left in the gutter which all gets washed down stream and contributes to excess phosphorus.

The large Canadian goose population is also a major phosphorus contributor as their droppings decompose and get washed into our waterways.

Automatic dishwashers are another contributor to phosphorus contamination. In the 1970s, phosphorus was banned from laundry detergents, but in most communities, dishwasher soaps were exempt from this regulation. And very few urban sewage plants are equipped with phosphorus removal systems.

Finally, many commercial farmers regularly apply fertilizers in the spring before planting. These applications are typically applied to large patches of earth that has no means of retaining these applications should heavy spring rains (which happens frequently)wash over their fields.

The assumption that because there is phosphorus in the water, that it must be coming from lawn fertilization is simply a conclusion that has not been proven scientifically.

Lowenfels vs. Gilman--I am really looking forward to it. I hope they get to respond to each other before they get published.

Yes, Kathy, that's the idea--to make it a real exchange.

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